Scarpa

Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Men's

Don’t last!

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

Size Bought:

40

Height:

5' 8"

Weight:

168

I ordered these for my son on 5/22/24 and received a few days later and today is only 9/28/24 not even four months they’re torn up with holes on the tips of the shoes they are definitely not wroth the $158 discontinued price l paid!!! What a rip off!!!

Probably a decent Bouldering shoe, but

Familiarity:

I returned this product before using it

Size Bought:

46

I read reviews on this shoe and bought a pair to check out for bouldering and general purpose. I never got out of the house with them because they're super uncomfortable (for me at least). They're touted as "moderately aggressive", but they put my foot into an extreme arch and wouldn't be comfortable at all between climbs, that much I can say for sure. They may be great for advanced climbers, but this intermediate one thinks it would create an un-fun situation. YMMV! Note that backcountry.com got it right - aggressive. Scarpa themselves calls it "moderately downturned", as do most review sites. Bravo, backcountry.com!

I wish the heel was a little smaller

I have wide feet due to bunions. I had a pair of Muira Vs (known to be a wider shoe from La Sportiva) that were making my bunions hurt more than ever even after I took the time to break them in. I go to the climbing gym about 3-4 times a week for 2+ hours and had my muiras for 4 months and still had pain. These were comfortable pretty much the first day I got them. Would have given 5 stars if the heel was just a little bit smaller. Great shoe overall!

Major issues with the velcro straps

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

This is my second pair of Instinct VS (I bought the first at REI). After only a few weeks, the velcro straps on both shoes nearly entirely lost their grip. It is bad at the point that even though I am now careful and get sure to apply pressure on the vecro when I close it, the strap pops open on at least one of the shoes during nearly every climb. This seems like a specific issue witn this pair of shoes, since my other pair of Instinct VS do not have this issue, and the velcro is perfectly functional after a year. The vecro is perfectly clean, without fibers etc stuck on it, so it should just work!

Really good shoes, big toes beware.

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

Size Bought:

43

Weight:

180

These shoes are so good, I don't even mind that there's no room for my big toe. I typically go for 43.5 in climbing shoes, but since the reviews said they run large I went with a 43. That was probably a mistake, but they are slowly but surely stretching to my feet. It's really only in my left big toe that its a problem. Perhaps its just my cartoonishly large digits. the best feature is the large amounts of top rubber on the top of the toe. you'll break some beta with these. the kind of weird smearing you can do with softer shoes doesn't work so well, but they still do just fine in gyms on volumes etc. you just have to be more technique conscious.

Great shoes - on my 2nd pair

Familiarity:

I've put it through the wringer

Size Bought:

44

Height:

5' 7"

Weight:

170

These have become by go to aggressive go to shoes for both the gym and outdoors. I have resoled a pair and bought a 2nd pair. I have wide feet and these are very comfortable with a tight fit once broken in. They may be too roomy for people with narrow feet. I find these excel at edging and vertical climbs. They are ok at smearing and work well in cracks that are not too narrow (they have a wide toe box that do not work great in narrow cracks. Highly recommend!

Awesome awesome shoe

Familiarity:

I've used it several times

Size Bought:

43.5

Height:

5' 11"

Weight:

190

When shopping for my next pair of aggressive bouldering shoes, I found that my heel would slip slightly out of the shoe when aggressively pointing my toes. the instinct is the first and only shoe I found that didnt do this. I also have extremely wide feet, and these do not bind my toes together like I found that many other shoes did. however, they are slightly shallow in height, so every once in a while I have to pop my heel out because I felt pressure from the toe rubber pushing down right on top of the knuckle of my big toe. they are decently stiff, which is good for me because I weigh ~190 pounds. BUT, dont let the sx edge rubber scare you; I have not noticed that they are slippery when smearing on volumes. They still grip quite well for heavier climbers, while still being sensitive enough for overhangs and roof problems. the toe is very pointed and quite precise, which is good for improving your footwork. I've come to realize I prefer one big velcro strap over more intricate lacing systems, like the la sportiva solution lace or the evolv phantom lacing system. I feel like a big strong velcro strap locks my heel down into the shoe better than thinner laces. That's just my opinion though; I know that others disagree. Now for sizing: take this with a grain of salt, since I have quite wide feet and I have never been able to downsize aggressively like other people on forums say they do. My street shoe is US 11 (sometimes 11.5). I got the instinct in EU 43.5, which equals US 10 1/3. I could probably size down to a 10 for ULTIMATE tightness, but im sorta a baby and dont like cramming my feet into super tight shoes. With the 43.5, my toes are slightly curled, toes touching the front, but do not feel like theyre suffocating. Good mix of performance and comfort, and I can wear them for several attempts before popping them off. For other reference, I tried the Evolv Phantom in size US 11.5, which was my comfort fit where I could where them for longer periods of time without having to take them off, and in size US 11, where I pretty much had to take them off after every boulder problem I tried, because they were too tight. Sizing was a huge problem when I was shopping for new shoes, so hopefully this helps anyone that is interested in the instincts!

Simply the best.

Familiarity:

I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Size Bought:

43

Height:

5' 10"

Weight:

160

New to climbing and these shoes are the only ones that seem to fit without feeling too big or painful. I'm a 10.5 with Nike and I went with 43. When I become more experienced maybe I'll try 42.5 but don't hesitate to give these a try. I see a lot of experienced climbers in the gym wearing these around me.

Sizing

Familiarity:

I've put it through the wringer

Size Bought:

EU 42

Height:

6' 1"

Weight:

190

Street shoe Men?s 11.5 (12 for most Nike) Evolv Shaman 11 Evolv Addict 10.5 Five Ten Team 11.5 La Sportiva Solution EU42 Instinct VS EU42 Highly advise going down 2-2.5 EU sizes from your street shoe to remove all dead space. They?ll mold to your foot and stretch around .25 of a size after about 2 weeks and be perfecto! Fits like a 2nd skin. No dead space, very tight aggressive fit. I weight about 190 lbs and have no problem using these on anything. Sensitive, precise, and moderately stiff. Toe is kinda whatever, but it does the job. Actually prefer these outdoors over indoors.