Why We Fish

There’s no doubt about it, fishing is relaxing... but there’s a chance of some serious excitement. When we’re spending time near water and need a few hours to recover between other activities, why not relax with a line in the water? Worst case, you catch quality time with Mother Nature—they call if fishing, not catching after all. But in the event of a hit, you’ll be snapped from your nap and tossed into a thrilling match of tug of war with who-knows-what on the end of your line. That’s the thing about fishing, you just never know what you’ll get. It’s mystery, therapy, and excitement all thrown into one sport. And trust us, one bite and you’ll be hooked.

How We Choose A Fishing Rods

Humans have been fishing for a long, long time. While it wasn’t always for sport, people have been fishing all over the world for almost 40,000 years. To put that into perspective, Stonehenge was pieced together about 5,000 years ago. For nearly as long as we’ve been using tools, we’ve been fishing. This means we’ve had quite some time to perfect the fishing pole, and it also means there are more than a few options to consider. We don’t mean to make you’re head spin—we’ll make choosing yours easy.

Length is often the first consideration when choosing a rod. Sizes vary from 4–14 feet. Why the range? Your rod length impacts nearly every aspect of fishing, but most importantly it determines how far you can cast. Longer poles will cast further, but they aren’t as nimble. So, when determining length, you have to have some idea of where and what you’ll be fishing. If you’re casting from the shore or throwing lures and want to cover distance, a longer rod will be your best friend. If you’re in a kayak or raft or jigging off a dock, you won’t need the range. If you’re just starting out and looking for a rod that can do a bit of everything, a 7-footer won’t let you down. 


Action: The rod’s action refers to how your rod reacts during fish-on action. More specifically, it’s a measurement of stiffness, flexibility, and bend. There are three types of action: fast, medium, and slow. Here’s a breakdown of the differences.

• Fast-action rods bend at the tip, giving you a strong “backbone” through most of the pole. These poles are perfect for bigger freshwater fish like largemouth bass and pike. The strength of the rod allows you to pull jigs and lures quickly through the water and offer support when you link up with something big.

• Medium-action rods flex through most of the pole, leaving the stiff section near your hand and the reel. They aren’t as responsive as fast action poles because the power has to work it’s way up the bend before making it to your line. Due to this design, setting your hook (pulling when you feel a bit to ensure the hook “sets” well in the fish’s mouth) could be slightly tougher. You can still catch a wide variety of sizes and species on medium-action rods.

• Slow-action rods bend throughout the length of the pole. Since the entire pole can bend, slow-action rods give a lot of whip when casting, letting you rocket lures impressively far. However, since they don’t have a “backbone” like heavy action rods, retrieving that lure becomes a bit of a chore. You’ll want to size your lures right if you’re using a slow-action rod—the smaller the better. The true joy of a slow-action rod is in the fight. Without extra support, it’s just you versus the fish. You’ll feel every twitch and head shake as your bring the battle closer to your net.

How To Choose The Right Reel

Unlike in fly fishing, where reels tend to all look the same, conventional reels come in a smorgasbord of different shapes and sizes. While they all look different, they work the same way. You click a button or flip the bail to release the line, you then cast the line, letting go at the apex. The different styles are used to either make that process easier for you or make it easier to target a certain species of fish. Here are the most popular types of reels and how they’re used.

• Spinning reels are perhaps the most popular conventional reels used today. They have an exposed bail (the gate that holds the spool), letting you see your line. As you retrieve line, the reel spins (hence the name) and puts your line back on the spool. They are durable, efficient, easy to detangle, and simple to learn, making them perfect for every angler from beginner to pro. Beginners, a few things to note. First is that the reel would be under your rod. Second, you can adjust your drag (resistance) in most designs by twisting the top of the spool. Lastly, when setting your rod up, make sure your line is on the correct side of the bail. If it’s on the wrong side, you’ll have to start over.

• A baitcasting reel, in contrast to spinning reels, is a semi-closed system. These reels sit on top of your rod and are prone to tangling if you’re not careful. Baitcasters don’t have a bail, so to stop the line from running you have to use your thumb. Since you feel the line going out, and the brake is your thumb, you have more control with where it lands. Along with being accurate, these reels are strong and can house some seriously strong line. Because of this their price tag is usually higher and they’re harder to learn on, so they may not be the best option for beginners.

• Spincasting reels are a totally housed system that use a button to release the spool. While these are the easiest to learn—hold the button and throw the line—they are known to tangle, break, and overall not be very reliable. Due their unreliability, casting limitations, and lack of accuracy they aren’t a popular option among anglers.

Rod & Reel Combos

Most of our sIf your head’s still spinning from all this new information, fear not. We’ll set you up with a rod and reel that’s perfectly paired together, so you can get fishing as soon as it arrives (almost, you’ll still need line and lures). Here are our favorite get-fishing-quick combos.

How To Choose A Fishing Watercraft

Fishing from the shore is always a pleasure, but sometimes—especially in the warmer months—fish will move to deeper, cooler water out of reach from even your best cast. Unless you plan on swimming after them, you’ll need a boat to reach their hidden holes. Luckily, you no longer need a power boat with a motor mounted with an array of fishing lines to go after far-out fish. Catching on to anglers’ desires to paddle, brands have been cranking out increasingly innovative options. Here’s what we look for in boats to go after fish away from the bank. Bon voyage.

• Style: Canoes and kayaks are typically good options for small fishing vessels (though, no one said you can’t fish off of a SUP). Being smaller, easier to transport, and more versatile, kayaks are perfect for solo operations.
  
• Propulsion Method: Human-powered or engine-powered? We’re in the business of people-powered propulsion (sometimes with pedal assist). If you’re looking to get out using paddle or pedal power, you’re in the right spot. Kayak makers are constantly innovating, especially for anglers, giving more options than ever for non-gas propulsion. If you’re happy doing the work, you can save a buck and stick to more traditional methods, but if you’re looking for long-distance adventures, some kayaks now provide pedal-assisted, battery-backed power (think water eBikes). Pedal-powered kayaks get you sailing hands-free, letting you cast and move simultaneously.
  
• Size: If it reliably floats, you can probably fish off of it—regardless of size. However, your watercraft should match your mission. If you’re bass fishing in small, weed-packed ponds, a shorter (~11-foot) boat will give you much more maneuverability. If you’re planning on getting “out there” on a sizable body of water, a larger craft (12-feet or longer) will give you speed, stability, and space for gear and food.
  
• Features: Live wells (built-in, water-filled chests for keeping catches alive), rod holders, dry storage, battery holders, and trolling motor hitches are just a few common features you might find on an angling-specific watercraft. Do you need all (or any) of these to land a catch? No. But they are nice amenities for serious fishers who plan on spending long hours on the water.
  

Important Notes For Beginning Boaters:

1. Many states require at least one (often one per occupant) PFD or life vest on a boat at all times. You may even be required to wear it while on the water. Stay safe, avoid a fine, and focus on the fish—pack a PFD.

2. Invasive species love boats. Nasty hitchhikers will cling to paddles, boat bottoms, anchor lines, and propellers. Make sure you follow local guidelines and properly clean your boat after every float.

How To Choose A Fish Finder

There’s time for traditional methods, and there’s time for tech. For those who are more into catching and less about guessing, it might be time to find your go-to fish finder. Most finders use sonar to detect fish and underwater structures—how cool is that? Here’s what we’re looking for when searching for fish.

• Depth: As much as we’d like to explore Atlantis from our kayaks, most fish finders are built for medium-depth lakes (anything less than 100 feet deep), which should be enough for most lakes. Some fish finders go deeper, but you’ll have to reach deeper in your pocket for those.
  
• Size: Fish finders come in a variety of sizes. While this doesn’t always impact the actual tech, a bigger screen can come in handy on a bright day in a bobbing boat. Sometimes fish appear as fuzzy blurs, so they’re a little easier to distinguish on a bigger screen. Much like phone size, this choice comes down to personal preference.
  
• Charting: Many fish, especially bass and smaller game fish, prefer to hide in structures and vegetation. Knowing what’s below you can not only help you catch but also give you a better idea of what your body of water looks like. Today, some fish finders come with pre-mapped lakes, which is great if you’re on a mapped body of water. But for lesser-known lakes, live mapping can be an option.