Why We Fly Fish

Connecting with nature is a core tenant for us at Backcountry, and it’s something we truly believe everyone should try to achieve on a regular basis. “Connecting” can manifest in many different ways: breathing cool alpine air, hearing the splash of a river, enjoying a beautiful view. But when it comes to fly fishing, a perfect cast allows you a quite literal connection. Landing a fish is means to an end, but there’s so much more to enjoy about fly fishing than just the bend in the rod—that’s why they call it “fishing” not “catching”. Anytime spent on the water is a win, and we want to share our passion for this therapeutic connection to nature with you.

How We Choose Fly Fishing Rods

Don’t look at your rod as a skinny piece of fiberglass—look at it as an extension of your arm. Your rod is your best partner in catching riparian culprits. Here’s an overview of what we consider when searching for the right one. If you’re looking for a deeper dive, check out our Fly Fishing Guide For Beginners.

Material: Most rods these days are made from graphite (carbon fiber), fiberglass, or bamboo. Each has their ratios of flexibility, strength, durability, and action. Being super-lightweight, responsive, and strong, graphite has become the most common choice among anglers.

Rod Weight: Fly rod weights (AKA wt or WT) range from 0-weights to 14-weights. The weight indicates the size of the fishing line a rod is designed to cast—the higher the weight, the heavier the line. Since most fish can be caught on any weight (if you’re good enough), there’s no exact science here, but we follow this rough outline:


1–4WT: sunfish & small trout (small streams)

4–6WT: trout & bass (streams & ponds)
6–8WT: bass, carp, pike, light steelhead (river & lakes)
8–10WT: steelhead, salmon, redfish (saltwater)
10–14WT: musky & trophy saltwater fish (biggest it gets)

Rod Length: As with everything else in this particular sport, your fly rod length will vary depending on where you’re fishing and what you’re comfortable with. The longer the rod, the easier it is to cast and mend lines. So if you’re just starting out, we recommend pairing with a 9-foot, 6WT rod. However, it’s good to keep in mind that many anglers will use a shorter rod when aiming for hard-to-reach (and hard-to-get-to) places like small streams.

Action: We wish catching a fish was as easy as yelling “action!” and smacking a clapperboard together, but that’s not the case here. When it comes to fly fishing, your rod’s action refers to it’s stiffness and flexibility. Action is easily seen by the speed it recovers from a cast. There are generally three types of actions: fast, medium, and slow.

• Fast action: These flex near the tip of the rod and run stiff through the rest of the rod. They whip and snap back quickly after a cast, providing extra power for fighting fish, casting long distances, and cutting through wind. Fast-action rods are typically tougher for beginners since they don’t pair well with extra-small flies.
  
• Medium action: These balanced, do-it-all rods show flex in the mid section of the rod, sporting a stiffer tip and tail. These are a good, versatile choice for anglers who plan on trying a little bit of everything from dry flies (flies that float) to streamers (larger, heavier flies that you actively retrieve). However, keep in mind that specificity is always key in targeting types of fish, so if you’re chasing a particular species, a do-it-aller might not be the best choice.
  
• Slow action: These rods flex throughout the rod, making them great for presenting (casting a fly so it looks natural) delicate flies. Because slow-action rods are not meant for long distance casting or big fights, they work best in small streams.

How To Pick The Right Fly Fishing Reel

There’s little in the sport of fishing more satisfying than hearing the click, click, click of a well-machined drag system (drag is resistance the fish fights against, which is designed to pull line out instead of allowing the line to snap). When looking to buy a reel, you want it to compliment your rod. You’re going to look for a reel that performs smoothly, feels balanced, and matches your rod’s length and weight. Here’s how we choose.

Weight & Size: Similar to rods, reels are rated by weight. This ensures that we’re using the right reel with right rod. For example, if you have a 5WT rod, you want to use a 5 or 5/6WT reel. Once you have the weight dialed, another way to make certain you have a good match is if the reel and rod feel balanced. Casting is mixed between art and athleticism—balance is key. 


Drag: Drag presents two ways: the old school (and still widely loved) “click and pawl” system and disc drag systems. Click and pawl uses the reel’s clicker to stop line from being taken too fast. It’s also a built-in resistance, albeit not a great one. Click and pawl is perfect for small game like stream trout and bass. Disc drag uses friction to create more adjustable resistance. More complex and expensive, this style is necessary for large game.


Line System: While your line isn’t really part of the reel, you’re not going to catch anything with a rod and reel alone. Your reel houses your line—they are part of the same setup—so this is as good a place as any to talk about it. Fly fishing is different than conventional fishing in that the weight of your line is what carries your fly—typically not added weights or the weight of a lure. Additionally, you can’t think of your line as one string, it’s actually a four-part system. The arbor (the spool where you attached your line) of the fly reel connects to the backing, which connects to your fly line, which connects to your leader, which connects to your tippet. Don’t worry, we’ll run you through all of that one at a time. If you’re still lost, our Gearhead® Experts will walk you through setting up your line in this video.

1. Backing: The first part of your fly line system is one you rarely see. Backing is a thin, yet strong line that acts as a last-measure assurance. Say you link up with something big and it starts running. It will pull your line out as it goes. Your backing gives you an extra 100–125 yards to wrestle it in before you completely run out of line.

2. Fly Line: If you’ve ever watched someone fly fishing, you might have noticed a brightly colored line gracefully whipping over the head of the caster. That colorful line is a thicker line that provides the mass to cast a light fly. The weight of your line should match your rod—a 4WT rod is made to cast 4WT line. Along with weight, fly line is made to either sink or float. If you’re a beginner, we recommend a floating line, but if you’re fishing in deeper water columns, you might need line that sinks.
3. Leaders: Throwing big, heavy, brightly colored line at skittish fish is a great way to never get a nibble. This is where a leader comes in handy. A leader is a 6–12 foot clear tapered line section that extends your reach away from your fly line. Not only do leaders add length, but they’re also designed to turn over your fly, meaning that since they are tapered, they flip your fly out, rather than getting caught under your fly line. Leaders are sold by diameter size, indicated by a number and X. Don’t confuse this with tensile strength—it’s simply a method to ensure you’re connecting the right size leader to the right size fly. A smaller number like 1X or 0X refers to a thicker diameter line, whereas 6X or 7X is very thin and delicate.
4. Tippet: Finally, at the end of your line comes the nearly invisible tippet attached to your tapered leader. You tie your fly to the end of the tippet. Ideally, the line-shy fish like trout won’t see your line at all, making a “natural” state when your fly hits the water. This is called your presentation. You don’t necessary need a tippet to make a perfect presentation since your leader is tapered, but after cutting and swapping out flies that taper slowly gets lost. A tippet adds a thin, fine line back without forcing you to replace your leader. Your tippet size is determined by fly size (the line diameter needs to be small enough to thread through the eyelet of the fly) and by species and fishing conditions. Tippet sizing can look tricky, but just remember the bigger the number, the smaller the tippet.

Best Fly Reel

What We Look For In Waders

Many fly fishing target species enjoy near-freezing alpine streams fed by snow runoff, so while waders aren’t essential, they’ll keep your legs and feet from falling off if you wade for the ideal angle. Being waterproof (and sometimes insulated), waders will keep you dry and warm no matter how chilly that stream gets. The more comfortable you are, the longer you’ll stay on the water. The longer you’re fishing, the better the odds you’ll catch something. Here’s what we look for in our men’s and women’s waders.

Bootfoot and stockingfoot—no, these aren’t hobbits. They are the two primary types of waders you’ll see anglers wearing. Bootfoot have heavy rubber boots connected to the legs, making them one piece. Stockingfoot waders end in a sock-like foot, usually made of neoprene—you’ll have to supply your own boots. Here are the pros and cons of each.

Bootfoot Waders


Pros:

• one-piece design retains heat
• quick on and off = more fishing time
• built-in boots may save you money

Cons:

• heavy-duty construction could restrict movement
• built-in boots might not be perfect foot size
• potential to overheat in warmer conditions

Stockingfoot Waders

Pros:

• more movement-friendly (compared to bootfoot)
• separate boots let you customize to your location & size
• typically easier to clean & store

Cons:

• the separate boots will cost ya
• two-piece system takes slightly longer to get ready = less fishing time
• not as warm as bootfoot waders
  
  
  

Aside from boot type, waders vary in length, coming in either chest-high or hip-high. Chest waders (or bib-style) are the safest, most versatile option because they allow you to fish in thigh or waist-high water. They usually run warmer, so they’re sometimes not the best option for shallow, summer fishing. Hip waders let you wade up to mid-thigh safely. And since they aren’t covering as much surface area, they’ll be more breathable for warmer-weather fishing.

How We Choose Wading Boots

Most of our secret fishing spots aren’t right off the road. Wading boots not only provide safe footing on river bottoms but also help you reach your destination. Wading boots can come in three different types of soles to improve your footing all around. Note that wading boots fit similar to hiking boots—you may be a half size larger than your daily loafers. Here’s what we look for in men’s and women’s wading boots.

• Rubber soles offer good performance and durability as you’re hiking and provide familiar grip on the river bottom. However, rubber soles can be clunky, making slicker river bottoms and wet rocks a balancing challenge.
  
• Felt soles offer the best traction on slippery rocks and river bottoms, but they wear down fast and are banned in certain waters due to concerns that they carry invasive species and parasites from one body of water to another. They also ice up easily, which poses a new set of problems on particularly cold days.
  
• Studded soles have screw-in ports for adding metal cleats or studs to wading boots for additional traction. Studs have a tendency to wear out or fall out, but they can add safety and confidence for wading on slippery surfaces. Keep your cleats in mind and avoid rubber rafts, wood floors, and anything else that you might poke through.

To help minimize the spread of invasive species and foreign bacteria, it’s good practice to rinse or clean your boots before jumping into a new water system. This is especially true if you’re using felt bottoms, since felt has been known to absorb unwanted particulate like a sponge. The health of the fish is determined by the health of our waterways, so do your part and help keep them clean!

How We Choose Fly Fishing Watercrafts

Nothing beats gliding down the Green or meandering down the Madison with a great crew while pulling in trophy catches. While waders allow most anglers to get in the water far enough to effectively catch most fish, boats open up all new avenues of options. So if you’re looking to up your fly fishing game, a watercraft might be your next move. Here’s what we look for when purchasing our first boat.

Style: Since they’re slightly more stable and roomier than other options Rafts make great fly fishing vessels (though, if you’ve got the balance, no one said you can’t fly fish off of a SUP). Rafts give us the room to cast our flies nice and far while being stable enough to stand and even take a few light rapids.

Size: If it reliably floats, you can probably fish off of it—regardless of size. However, your watercraft should match your mission. If you’re trout fishing in small, quick rivers a shorter boat will give you much more maneuverability. If you’re planning on getting “out there” on a sizable body of water, a larger craft (12-feet or longer) will give you speed, stability, and space for gear, friends, and food.

Features: Swivel seats, stands, anchors, paddle & rod holders, and a place to put a small motor are all great features to keep your eyes out for when looking for a river-worthy raft. Many watercraft makers are quickly realizing anglers are a huge, untapped market. Stay in touch with new arrivals from the industry because they might have innovative features we haven’t even thought of yet.

Important Notes For Beginning Boaters:

Many states require at least one (often one per occupant) PFD or life vest on a boat at all times. You may even be required to wear it while on the water. Boat safety laws and regulations can usually be found in your state’s fishing rules and guidelines. Stay safe, avoid a fine, and focus on the fish—pack a PFD.


Invasive species love boats. Nasty hitchhikers will cling to paddles, boat bottoms, anchor lines, and propellers. Make sure you follow local guidelines and properly clean your boat after every float.

Why We Use UPF Apparel

UPF stands for ultraviolet protection factor. It’s usually associated with a number between 30–50+. UPF is a clothing-specific rating that indicates how much UV radiation is blocked by the fabric. The number shows what percent of sun penetrates through the fabric. For example, UPF 50 blocks 1/50th (98%) of the sun’s rays, allowing only 2% through. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, UPF 30–49 is considered “very good” protection while UPF 50+ is “excellent.” Why not UPF 100? Well, UPF doesn’t get higher than 50+. It’s the maximum rating for fabrics.



So, unless you plan on setting aside a separate sunscreen fund, UPF apparel is a must when fishing extended hours under the sun. And with the skyrocketing price of sunblock, sun protection gear has arguably become the economic option. Also—and this is purely anecdotal—sunscreen seems to be a fish deterrent. They hate the stuff. If you are applying extra block, make sure to wash your hands before tying flies. Here’s our go-to sun pro for days on and near the water.

Picking Fly Fishing Packs & Vests

People say patience is an angler’s best friend—we argue it’s actually organization. Having your flies, nippers, floatant, and especially your net handy will make the difference between landing and losing a catch. Packs and vests keep the many tiny fly fishing essentials all in one place and, more importantly, on you while you’re in the water. Some vests even double as PFDs, keeping you safe and organized. Picking your vest is as much personal preference as it is technical. Finding the perfect vest for your needs might take some exploration. Here are a few of our favorite organizers for fishing.

Fly Essentials: Line, Leaders, Tippet, Nets & More